Absorption,
percutaneous | Method for determining the level of uptake of a substance through the skin. Is extremely important for assessment of the risk to health |
| AiF |
German Federation of Industrial Research Associations "Otto von Guericke e. V." |
| Anagen | The first phase of the life cycle of a hair. It lasts 3 to 6 years depending on a person's age and sex. Phases of hair growth are determined in => phototrichograms. |
| Angiogenesis | Angiogenesis the biological process by which new blood vessels are formed. While this is a normal process in wound healing or reproduction, angiogenesis is also involved in pathological processes like tumor growth and metastasis formation. |
| Australian Standard (AS / NZS) | Standard developed in Australia for testing the UVB and UVA efficacy of a product. |
| Boots Star Rating | Classification of UVA protection on the basis of the in vitro UVA and UVB absorption ratios |
| Bootstrapping | Mathematical procedure for calculation of non-linear regression of an array of curves (=curve fitting) |
| BP | British Pharmacopeia |
| Carbonyl protein test | In vitro method for determination of the level of oxidative stress in cells and tissue samples. Used to determine an antioxidant efficacy. |
| Cell viability | Parameter for measurement of the total activity of a cell population for instance by uptake of the viable dye neutral red in cell lyosomes or kenacid blue staining of cell proteins. |
| Chemiluminescence | When atoms or molecules in an excited electron state as a direct result of a strongly exergenic reaction emit electromagnetic radiation, one speaks of chemiluminescence. |
| COLIPA | Comité de Liaison des Associations Européennes de L'Industrie de la Parfumerie des Produits Cosmétiques et de Toilette (The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association). |
| Corneometer | In vitro method for determination of stratum corneum hydration (horny layer moisture). |
| Cosmetics, cosmetic products | Cosmetic products are substances or preparations intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body or with the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, perfuming them, changing their appearance or correcting body odors. |
| Cutometer | Skin analyzer for detection of the mechanical properties of skin tone, elasticity and firmness. |
| Cytokines | Cytokines are proteins/messenger substances of signal transduction produced and secreted by many cell types. |
| Cytotoxicity test | Cell culture test for assessment of the toxic potential of a substance or a mixture of substances. The endpoint is the survival rate of cells determined by viable staining with neutral red or kenacid blue after a defined exposure time. In addition, other biochemical parameters such as the expression of cytokines or the release of enzymes can be analyzed. |
| DAB | German pharmacopeia |
| DAD | Photodiode array detector |
| Deoxyribose test | Determination of the antioxidant efficacy of a substance by measurement of the hydroxyl activity |
| DGF | Deutsche Gesellschaft für Fettwissenschaft e. V. (German Society for Fat Science) |
| DGK | Deutsche Gesellschaft für Wissenschaftliche und Angewandte Kosmetik e.V. (German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetology) |
| 3T3 NRU PT Test | Officially recognized in vitro test (OECD TG 432) in fibroblasts for prediction of phototoxic properties |
| 3D-Skin model | See skin, reconstructed |
| ECVAM | European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods |
| ELISA | = Enzyme-linked Immunosorbent Assay, immunological method for measurement of released biological messenger substances. |
| EP | European pharmacopeia |
| Epicutaneous test | See patch test |
| FDA | Food and Drug Administration (US health authority) |
| Fibroblasts | Cells that give rise to connective tissue (e.g. bones, tendons, ligaments, etc.) |
| FKI | Forschungsgemeinschaft für die kosmetische Industrie eV (Research Foundation of the Cosmetic Industry). Institute Dr. Schrader is a member. |
| Fluorescence spectroscopy | Spectroscopic analytical method for studying substances characterized by fluorescence activity. |
| FOITS | Fast Optical In vivo Topometry of human Skin
Optical method for direct measurement of the skin surface profile, smoothing of wrinkles or skin roughness |
| Formulation development | Processing of active substances and formulation into dispensable, ready-to-use products |
| GC-MS | Instrumental analytical technique in which a gas chromatograph (GC) is coupled to a mass-selective detector (MSD). This technique is used for the identification and quantification of volatile substances and mixtures thereof, especially in trace amounts. |
| GD | Gesellschaft für Dermopharmazie e. V. (Society for Dermopharmacy) |
| Half-head test | Test method in applied hair cosmetology |
| HaCaT | Human non-tumorigenic keratinocyte cell line |
| HET/CAM test | In vitro test for determination of the irritancy of individual active substances or products on the eyes and mucous membranes. Adverse effects can be readily detected on the sensitive blood vessel system of incubated hen's eggs. |
| Histidine photooxidation test | This test method permits identification of photosensitizers by measurement of the formation of singlet oxygen, see Phototoxicity. |
| HPLC | High Performance Liquid Chromatography. Instrumental analytical method for identification and quantification of soluble solid and liquid substances and substance mixtures |
| HPTLC | High Performance Thin Layer Chromatography. Instrumental analytical technique for identification and quantification of soluble solid and liquid substances and substance mixtures. |
| ICCVAM | Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods |
| ICL-H | Induced chemiluminescence of human hair (method for quantification of the effect of cosmetics by measurement of photon emission on human hair) |
| ICL-S | Induced chemiluminescence of human skin (method for quantification of the effect of cosmetics by measurement of photon emission on human skin) |
| In vitro test method | Non-animal laboratory test method |
| In vivo test method | Test method performed in/on a living organism |
| ISBS | International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin |
| Kenacid blue test | See Cytotoxicity test / Cell viability |
| Keratinocytes | Horny cells, main cell type in the epidermis |
| Laser profilometry | Technique for measurement of the skin surface profile |
| LFBG | Lebensmittel-, Bedarfsgegenstände- und Futtermittelgesetzbuch (Food, Consumer Goods and Feed Code) |
| Linoleic acid test | Used for determination of photodynamic lipid oxidation, which is an early stage of cell wall damage caused by free radicals and active oxygen species. See Phototoxicity. |
| LLNA | Local Lymph Node Assay, officially recognized alternative method for assessment of a potential contact allergy. |
| LMBG | Lebensmittel- und Bedarfsgegenständegesetz (Food and Consumer Goods Act). |
| MPE | Mean Photo Effect, parameter / prediction model in the 3T3 NRU PT test |
| Multiport | Sun simulator from Solarlight |
| Neutral red test | See Cytotoxicity test |
| 3T3 NRU PT test | Officially recognized in vitro test with a fibroblast cell line for prediction of the phototoxic properties of a substance. See Phototoxicity |
| OECD | Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development |
| OECD Guidelines | Worldwide officially recognized test methods for identification and characterization of potential risks of new and known substances and their preparations |
| Ophthalmology | The branch of medicine that deals with the anatomy, functions, pathology, and treatment of the eye. |
| OxyDNA test | In vitro fluorescence method for detection of oxidative DNA damage in fixated permeabilized cells. Used for detection of an antioxidant efficacy. |
| Patch test | This test is used to determine the local tolerability of a preparation. The substance to be tested is placed on a plaster ca. 1 cm² in size and the plaster applied to healthy skin. After removal of the test plaster the affected skin area is evaluated. |
| Pharmaceuticals | Substances and preparations that are governed by the Drug Act |
| Photohemolysis test | In vitro method in isolated erythrocytes for measurement of possible phototoxic effects |
| Photo patch test | Used for detection of phototoxic reactions. The substances to be tested are applied to the back with a lightproof test plaster. After 24 hours one plaster is removed and the skin exposed to UVB and/or UVA radiation (below the minimal erythema dose). After 24 more hours both test areas are evaluated. If a phototoxic reaction occurs the exposed test area is positive and the unexposed area negative. |
| Phototoxicity | Acute toxic reaction after a single exposure of skin to a chemical or systemic uptake with subsequent exposure to light. |
| Phototoxicity test | All test methods for assessment of the phototoxic potential of a substance or a finished formulation. See 3T3 NRU PT test, histidine photooxidation test, linoleic acid test, photohemolysis test. |
| Phototrichogram | A phototrichogram is used for differentiation of different hair growth phases in vivo and hence for objectification and typification of an effluvium and for control of therapy.
A comparison of pictures after a fresh shave and after 2 days makes it possible to count growing hairs and hence calculate the anagen or telogen rate. |
| PIF | Photo-irritation factor, parameter in the 3T3 NRU PT test |
| PPD | PPD = Persistent Pigmentation DarkeningMethod for determination of the UVA protection factor in vivo |
| Quantitative image analysis (1985) | Computer-guided optical method for conversion of image data into mathematical data |
| RBC | Red blood cell |
| Red blood cell test | In vitro method performed in isolated erythrocytes for determination of the ocular/mucous membrane irritancy of surfactants and surfactant products |
| Rheology | Instrumental method of analysis for determination and evaluation of flow properties of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. |
| RI | Refractive index detector |
| Safety assessment | Evaluation of the non-toxicity of cosmetic products on the basis of literature surveys, toxicity tests, irritancy tests, in-use tests and market surveillance if applicable. |
| SCCNFP | Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products |
| Sebumeter | Skin analyzer for measurement of skin surface lipids. |
| Skin reconstructed | Skin culture of human cells. Is used for various test methods such as for determination of the skin compatibility or assessment of the phototoxic and allergenic potential. In addition, other biochemical parameters such as the expression of cytokines or release of enzymes can be analyzed. |
| Skin washing machine | Device for determination of the cleansing effect of cosmetics on human skin |
| Stratum corneum | Uppermost skin layer of the epidermis consisting of the dead horny layer composed of dead keratinocytes. |
| Sun protection factor(SPF) | The sun protection factor gives the number of times a sunscreen product prolongs the skin's own protection time against UVB radiation. |
| Telogen | Last phase of the life cycle of a hair. Takes 3-6 months. This phase lasts until the hair falls out. Afterwards the anagen phase of the hair bulb begins. Phases of hair growth are determined in the => trichogram. |
| TEWL | Trans Epidermal Water Loss, indicator for the loss of function of the horny layer barrier of the skin that can be determined by evaporimetry. |
| USP | United States Pharmacopeia |
| UVA | UVA radiation is the shortwave portion of UV light (320-400 nm). |
| UVB | UVB radiation is the longwave portion of UV light (280-320 nm). |
| UV/VIS spectroscopy | Spectroscopic method of analysis for studying substances that absorb in the UV or in the visible wavelength range of light. |
